I love Braiding.. I cant wait to try all these cool techniques.

Get top tails for show hunters with step-by-step tail braiding tips.

 

A neatly braided tail accentuates a hunter’s hindquarters. It adds to the overall picture of refinement and elegance, which makes it a pity that braided tails are rarely seen outside the A-rated divisions. Here are some step-by-step tips on how to braid your horse’s tail like a pro.


Begin with a freshly shampooed tail. Although you can use a conditioner, avoid any coat polish or detangler, as it will make the hair slick. You aren’t ready to braid until you can easily comb through the hair without encountering any snags.

Basic braiding tools for mane and tail.

Dampen the hair at the top and all along the sides of the dock with a mixture of water and a styling lotion. You’ll need a piece of yarn about 24 inches long, a latch hook and a pair of scissors. Match the yarn to your horse’s hair. (Brightly colored yarn is a trend whose time is past, however, we’re using it here for illustrative purposes.) If your horse is tall, you’ll also need a step stool so that you aren’t accidentally pulling the hair downward as you braid. Pulling downward will eventually cause the tail braid to droop and sag. Instead, you want to hold each section of hair level as you plait it into the braid.

Separate out three sections of hair at the very top of the dock. One section comes from the left side, one from the right side, and one from the center. Although the hair for the center section may be very short, especially if your horse rubs his tail, you can coax it into submission with extra styling solution.

Using the three sections, begin your French braid.

As you pick up hair from alternating sides to plait into the French braid, reach for hair underneath the dock. Only take a few strands at a time, or your French braid will become chunky and unmanageable. Press inward toward the dock each time you plait the hair together. This will help prevent the French braid from sagging away from the tail bone.

Approximately two inches from the end of the tail bone, stop French braiding…

…and incorporate the three sections of hair you hold into a simple “pigtail” braid, about six inches long

Fold your yarn in half and incorporate it into the braid and continue for another two inches before knotting it.

For a secure knot, wrap both pieces of yarn around the bottom of the pigtail while forming a small loop with your index finger, then feed the yarn ends back through and pull taut, in a sort of half-hitch knot.

There are three ways to finish the job.

The Loop
The traditional way is to simply end with a demure loop. Insert your latch hook underneath the French braid, about two inches from the bottom.	Grab the yarn tails and pull them through until the top of the pigtail is anchored beneath the French braid. Next, use your latch hook to take one half of the yarn and pull it through to the other side of the French braid.	Finally, knot the ends on top of the French braid and snip off the excess yarn.

The Pinwheel
To create the stylish pinwheel, braid down into your pigtail; then split the hair into two equal sections, each one containing a strand of yarn.	Roll the braid upward in a tight pinwheel, with each section of hair on either side of your coil.	Continue rolling tightly.
Once the pinwheel is nestled against the French braid and the tail bone, find each piece of yarn and make a knot beneath the pinwheel.	Then bring the yarn ends together above the pinwheel and knot again, right against the French braid.	For some extra security, knot above and below the pinwheel a few more times. Snip off any excess yarn.

The Wrap
The most expedient finish is the trendy wrap technique.	Wrap the pigtail braid once around the dock.	Tuck the end under the loop of braid, gently pulling any unbraided tail hair along.
Pull the yarn ends through on either side of your French braid, cross it over your pigtail braid and tie. Neatly snip away extra yarn.

A Strong Finish: To help strengthen your French braid for a long day of showing, and to help it lie straight, pull through several short pieces of yarn under it and knot on top. This treatment also adds a

Until Recently I will admit I have not trimmed my horses feet like I should... I just kept putting it off and putting it off until I noticed how badly one of my ponies feet were which really scared me so I contacted my local farrier.. I find its very very important to have a good farrier.. One you can trust, one that is gentle and caring.  Ive seen horses in very uncomfortable situations while being trimmed and I refuse to ever let one of my animals go through that.. I am a lucky one to have a good farrier.. Here is some great helpful information I found and thought Id share with my readers.. Whether your new to owning an equine or a pro.... a little more information never hurt anyone....... !
Oh and if you were wondering...... he said all my Equine family had perfect healthy feet :)  I just needed to apply some hoof crack treatment to them.... I was thrilled we got a Good Check up..... !!

Caring for your horse’s hooves is a important part of maintaining your horses overall health. If at all possible depending on your day’s routine you should check your horses hooves daily. At the very least, two to three times per week. You’ll find you become very familiar with what is normal and what is not, and to notice any problems that may be starting. To help you with this checking, here’s a simple checklist for you to refer to in your daily grooming routine.
1. As you approach your horse make sure the symmetry of his hooves is close. They don’t have to be exactly equal, but very close to the same size and shape.
2. Then carefully look for defects in the wall and coronary bands. Pick up each hoof, run your hand over the outside of the wall to feel for defects. You can use the exact same procedure for the coronary band, then squeeze it gently, these two procedures will also show tender spots and any moisture bearing areas.

3. Carefully inspect the sole. Check the coloring in each hoof. They should be the same in color. A clearly delineated dark spot indicates a bruise or puncture wound that my need veterinary attention.

4. Next,look and compare your horse’s frogs. The two front hooves should be similar in size and shape and the same with the rear hooves. You should lightly press each frog with your hoof pick, in most areas, with the exception of desert areas. They should be slightly spongy.

5. If your horse is shod, grasp the shoe and see if it wiggles. If it does, check for missing clinches. Should any shoe be loose you may choose to remove the shoe before your horse loses it on his own with the possible result of taking a chunk of his hoof with it.
If you keep a good close eye on your horses hooves, you can avoid a lot of issues by catching the problem before it gets severe. I’d recommend you work into your regular hoof cleaning a few simple steps. Use your hoof pick from heel to toe. If it is tightly packed you may need to loosen it up a bit before it’s removed. Once all the debris is removed, check all the areas of the hoof and make sure there is not a bad odor as this is a clear cut sign of thrush. Also make sure there are no pebbles or stones lodged anywhere, even under the shoe.
Your horses hooves should exhibit a natural glossy luster of the hoof wall. Plus a smooth uniform surface free of cracks, rings, dishes and flares and a concave sole that touches the shoe. If you have all of that, you can be pretty sure that your horses hooves are in good health.

Organic Treats for your horses you can make at home.

Oatmeal Molasses Cookies

2 cups brown-sugar oatmeal (dry).

Half-Cup grated carrots

3 tablespoons molasses half cup brown sugar

.

Combine all these ingredients. Add enough water to make into soft dough.   Stir well.  Place dough in fridge to chill will make it easier to work with about 1 hour.

Once chilled roll into 1 or 2 inch balls and flatten or you can roll it out on a floured surface and cut with cookie cutters.

Put into oven on 365 degrees until golden brown and crisp.

Package them up and give them to your fave equine friend.. Or give them to a barn buddy they are just as good for people..  ENJOY !!

Signs of a Dehydrated Horse

 

A horse's skin loses its elasticity when its body fluid or electrolyte levels are depleted. An easy way to identify this is to pinch up a skin fold along the horse's back. A dehydrated horse's skin will stay up in a ridge, while healthy skin should spring smoothly back into place. Other signs of dehydration include:  Here are some other easy simple steps to take.

1.

Evaluate the mucous membranes of your horse's mouth and tongue. If they are excessively dry and red, the horse is showing signs of dehydration. Check the horse for excessive sweating, dull or sunken eyes and depression.

2.
Push on the horse's gums above the teeth to check for prolonged capillary refill time. The skin will change from pink to white as you push. Count how many seconds it takes for the color to return. Anything longer than three seconds indicates dehydration.

3.
Check your horse's heart rate. Normal heart rate is between 36 and 42 beats per minute, according to Equine Veterinary Services. Anything higher than 60 beats per minute indicates dehydration.
4.
Record your horse's respiration rate. Normal respiration rate in a healthy horse is eight to 12 breaths per minute. The respiration rate of a dehydrated horse will be higher than the normal rate, and the breaths will be shallow.

Other Tips To make sure your horse stays Hydrated:

Provide clean, fresh water and mineral blocks to the horse at all times to prevent dehydration. Monitor the amount of water the horse consumes every day.

Deworm your horse on a regular schedule. Worms can block a horse's intestines and make healthy
hydration impossible.

Place a tank heater in your horse's water bucket or use a heated water bucket to keep the water supply from freezing in cold weather

** Tips and Warnings **

Do not wait to consult your vet if your horse is severely dehydrated. Circulatory collapse and shock may result in death if not promptly treated. Excessive amounts of electrolytes can be toxic, so always consult your veterinarian before giving electrolyte supplements.



This Informations was provided by How To

Its Hot Outside.. Make sure to Protect your Horse

SUMMER REMINDER......................CHECK YOUR HORSES OFTEN..........................!

Provide ample fresh, clean water. Check daily that buckets or troughs are not contaminated with bird droppings, insect larvae, chaff, or algae growth. Try to keep the water cool. Horses may not want to drink warm water. Ponies and foals may have trouble reaching to the bottom of a shallowly filled trough. Make sure everyone in your paddocks can reach the water.

Sponge or hose down the large blood vessels along the inside of the legs, belly, and neck. Don’t spray the horse’s face or get water in its ears—sponge them down gently.

If you must work your horses hard, try to schedule your session for early morning or late evening when it is cooler.

After riding or driving in hot weather, cool your horse down slowly. Loosen girths or belly bands immediately after a work out. Offer sips of cool—not cold—water and walk the horse slowly. Muscles are more apt to stiffen if the horse is allowed to stand, and moving muscles dissipate heat better than stationary ones.

Consider using electrolytes if your horse is sweating hard, such as when the combined humidity and air temperature exceeds 104 degrees Fahrenheit or your horse will be working hard (a long trail ride or competition). Electrolytes replace salts lost in sweating. They are similar to human sport drinks. You can put electrolytes in the horse’s feed, or use a large-ended syringe to squirt into the mouth. Use electrolytes made for horses. Electrolytes made for other livestock may be unsuitable.

Make sure there is a place for your horse to avoid the sun, either a building or a shade tree.

Clip horses with heavy coats. Be careful not to clip too close however, since exposed skin can sunburn.

Apply zinc oxide cream to horses with pink noses to prevent and treat sunburn.

Mid to late summer weather often means that grass growth slows down and pasture quality declines. Make sure your horse is getting enough fodder and consider supplementing with hay if necessary. Horses need energy to stay warm and cool. Adjust your feed mixture if your horse begins to lose condition in hot weather.

During very hot weather, consider keeping your horses stabled during the day, and let them out at night.

If your barn becomes hot and stuffy, consider setting up a fan. Make sure the horse cannot reach the cord or fan itself, it can’t be tipped, and that it is plugged into a ground fault interrupt electrical receptacle if there is any chance of electrical wiring coming into contact with moisture, such as a spilled water bucket or a curious horse’s mouth.

If hot weather brings clouds of biting insects that keep your horse pacing and stomping, try using fly sprays, masks, and sheets. Water-based fly sprays may be less harsh on the coat hairs, as oil-based ones can cause bleaching.

Whether you are at home riding or competing, a bucket full of ice water and old towels can help refresh you and your horse. Place them over your horse’s neck and your own. A drop of lemon, mint, or citronella essential oil on the people towels is an energizing touch.

Take care of yourself. If you get overheated and tired, you may not be able to take care of your horse effectively. And you could miss warnings that your horse itself is showing signs of heat stress.

Heat stroke can happen to horses whether they are working hard, standing in stuffy stables, or traveling in trailers. Call a vet and take immediate action if your horse exhibits any of these symptoms:

• Elevated respiration in an inactive horse (normal range is 4 to 16 breaths per minute).
• Elevated pulse in an inactive horse, pulse that does not drop after several minutes, or climbs once exercise has stopped.
• Profuse sweating or no sweating at all.
• Elevated body temperature above 103F.
• Irregular heart beat known as ‘thumps.’
• A depressed attitude.
• Dehydration. Test for this by observing your horse’s flanks. If they look caved in, he is probably dehydrated. Pick up a pinch of skin along your horse’s neck. If the skin snaps back quickly, the horse is sufficiently hydrated. If the pinched area collapses slowly, the horse is dehydrated.

What to Do Until the Vet Arrives
Use shade, cool water, breezes, or fans as best you can. Stand your horse in a pond or stream. Sponge or spray the large blood vessels along the inside of the legs and belly. Offer sips of water.

This information came from About.com

This past weekend.. Lil Wranglers Rescue accepted an invite to set up a table to sell our T-shirts and spread the word about our rescue at a local business having a celebration.  We were fortunate to get to sit along side some local guys who have a world known TV show on animal planet and the crowd was huge.... Over 6000 people turned out for this event.   We are really excited to know that all these people got to hear and learn a little more about LWR.  We have many many more events scheduled throughout the summer..

Here are some fun pics from the day.. Maybe you can figure out what Popular TV show was there that day !!  Have a fantastic Week :)